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Before you can learn snowboarding you will first need to learn about
its primary piece of equipment: the Snowboard. You will need to know
what a snowboard consists of and what the different elements are
before you can choose which snowboard is best for you and how you
should use your snowboard. In this section you will learn that
snowboards now-a-days are highly technical feats of engineering. If
you have a snowboard yourself make sure to identify the following
elements:
Base
The snowboard's base is the Bottom side of the
snowboard or the part of the board that
touches the snow. Most snowboard bases are made from a
polyethylene called P-Tex. These bases are made in one of two
ways: sintered or extruded. Extruded bases are melted and cut
to shape. Sintered bases are ground into powder, heated,
pressed and sliced into shape. A sintered base is superior -
it's more durable, faster and holds wax better than an
extruded base. It's also more expensive and difficult to
repair. If you're looking for high performance, go with a
sintered base; for a board on a budget, an extruded model will
do. Even better than sintered P-Tex base is a graphite base.
They hold wax even better and run even faster. Graphite basis
are always deep black and are mostly found on fast racing
boards.
Camber
Camber is the amount of space beneath the center of a snowboard when it
lays on a flat surface and its weight rests on the tip and
tail. In other words, This is the gentle arch the board makes when you rest it
on a flat surface. It's closely related to flex: the higher
the camber, the more pressure the board puts at the nose and
tail. A Flat camber indicates a board may spin easily, which
can be good for certain freestyle moves. In a used board,
however, it may also be a sign that the board is worn out. In
most new boards you want a slightly springy camber, which
helps stabilize the board at higher speeds and on harder
snow. It also makes it easier to turn the
snowboard.
Contact Points
Contact Points are the points at which the board contacts the snow without the
pressure of the rider being displaced on the board. This is
also called the board's wheel base. The contact points can be
found by placing the board on a smooth, flat surface then
slide a piece of paper under the center of the snowboard,
slide it toward the nose or tail until it stops.
Edge
Edge refers to the metal edge of the snowboard. The toe edge is the edge at
the toeside of the snowboard. The heel edge is the edge at the
heel side of the snowboard.
Effective Edge
The length of the metal edge on the snowboard which touches the
snow, known as the edge and is used to turn the
snowboard. Therefore, it does not include the edge of the tip
or tail.
The effective edge is in contact with the snow when the board
is in a carved turn. A longer effective edge makes for a more
stable, and controllable ride; a shorter effective edge makes for a
looser, and more easily turning board.
Sidecut Radius
Sidecut Radius is the measurement of how deeply or shallowly the boards
cut is from the nose of the board to the waist (or middle of
the board). This is what helps the board turn. The smaller the
sidecut radius the tighter you will be able to turn. A board
with a larger sidecut will make big arching turns. It is the
radius of a circle that makes the hourglass shape of the
snowboard and thus how it is defined and measured. It works in
conjunction with the running length of the snowboard.
Flex Point
The flex point is located between the two bindings and is the
point where the board begins or ends its flex and allows for
sidecut radius contact.
Nose/Tip
The nose or tip is the front end of the snowboard. If your snowboard has a
similar front and back side then the side that is turned up
higher is usually the nose. A higher nose/tip is needed for
higher speed alpine riding as you will need to keep your
snowboard from digging itself into the snow. Alpine boards
often have a pointier nose also.
Nose/Tip Length
Length of board from the widest part of the board's nose to the
tip of the nose.
Nose/Tip Width
The widest part of the board measured across the front tip or
nose area of the board.
Overall Length
Overall Length is measured from the tip of the board to the
tail and is generally expressed in Centimeters (cm).
Stomp Pad
A stomp pad or nonskid pad is a rubber mat that you can stick
on top of your snowboard next to your backfoot binding. It is
used when you need to slide with only your front foot bound to
your snowboard, for instance when you are exiting a lift.
Without a stomp pad you could slide off your board, catch the
snow with your back foot and pull your legs apart, which could
be extremely painful.
Tail
The rear end of the snowboard, which is opposite of the nose/tip. Often
the tail is flatter than the tip and is more squarely cut. Some alpine
boards have a split in the tail to give more turning power and
coordination in high speed turns. Freestyle boards will often
have similar tips and noses to make it easier to ride "fakie"
(with the front foot in the back).
Tail Length
The length of board from the widest part of the board's tail to the
tip of the tail is referred to as the tail length.
Tail Width
The widest part of the board measured across the tail's tip or
tail area of the board is the tail width.
Top/Deck
Opposite of the base, the top or deck of the board is where the bindings
are mounted and the rider stands. Most boards have mounting
holes in the deck where the bindings can be screwed into.
Place the
holes enable you to connect your bindings to your board at different angles
or stances.
Waist Width
Waist width is the narrowest point of the board. This is usually the middle
of the sidecut, located between the bindings. Waist width of a
board should be relative to the size of your feet. Boards with
a narrow waist width are quicker from edge to edge, but if your
feet are size 11 or more you will most likely require a
wider board. Otherwise, your toes may hang over the edge
and cause toe drag, which will slow you down.
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There are roughly three classes to distinguish here:
- Entry Level Boards ($150-$250)
- Mid-Range Boards ($250-$450)
- Top End Boards ($450 and up)
In general, less expensive boards will be heavier in weight and simpler in
design. As boards get more expensive they become lighter and have more
design features to accommodate different styles of riding. As you progress in
your snowboarding skills you will learn which features a new
snowboard should have and your demands will become more specific.
Beginning boarders should settle for a less expensive board that will teach
them their exact needs and preferences.
What is my Skill Level?
Again there are roughly three classes to distinguish here:
- Newbie: from total beginner to having a few days of riding
experience
- Intermediate: comfortable with common riding techniques and
starting to attempt tricks
- Advanced: comfortable with riding all pistes and off slope.
Advanced tricks and skills
What is my preferred Riding Style?
Once you have evolved from a beginner to a more experienced boarder,
you may want to choose a distinctive Riding Style and adjust your
gear according to that choice. Again there are mainly three classes
of snowboard riding styles although there are many subclasses. For
more information on Riding Styles click the link given to the left.
That section will describe how the different Snowboarding Riding
Styles work so you can make a choice. In short these are the main
classes:
- Freestyle
- Freeride
- Freecarve
Most boards will be in 1 of these categories. Some beginner boards
might be a combination of Freestyle and Freeride. It is best to
choose a board that will fit your style as soon as possible instead
of learning a particular style on a combination board. Many
snowboarders learn how to ride on a FreeRide/FreeStyle board and
then choose one of these styles. FreeCarving is often
selected by more experienced FreeRide boarders.
What Length should my Snowboard be?
Length is one of the most important characteristics of a snowboard.
In general, there are a few rules:
- For a person with average build, the board's length should reach
the chin or mouth of the person when placed on the
ground.
- Heavier riders should have longer less flexible boards
- Lighter riders should have shorter more flexible boards
- Freestyle riding is often done with shorter board to allow
better maneuverability. Freeriding, deep snow and racing boards
will be longer in size.
What Width should my Snowboard be?
- You should make sure that your feet do not hang over the board
too much. Feet that hang over the edges of a board cause Toe and
Heel drag. Drag will make it difficult to carve on your edges.
So riders with big feet should buy wider boards or adjust the
angle of their feet. Wider boards are the most common solution.
- Men and heavier riders will often need wider boards than women
or lighter people
How flexible should my Snowboard be?
There are two kinds of flexibility
- Torsional Flex: how flexible the board is across its
width. More torsional flex will make it easier to twist the
board which is important in sharper turns.
- Longitudinal Flex: how flexible the board is from tip to
tail. More longitudinal flex will make it easier to bend
the board in the length.
FreeStylers need more flexible boards for more board control and
maneuverability. FreeRiders and especially FreeCarvers need
stiffer boards to keep their boards under control in higher
speeds. Heavier riders need stiffer boards.
How deep should the sidecut be on my Snowboard?
In general there are a couple rules:
- The depth of the sidecut has everything to do with turning
- A deeper sidecut makes it easier to turn, which is why
beginner boards often have a deeper sidecut
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Snowboard
Size Chart
Below is a sizing
chart to better help you choose the board with the right dimensions
for you. Understand that board length is very much a personal
preference and that these numbers are by no means set in stone. The
lengths stated are relative recommendations for packed snow and can be increased by 3cm-9cm
if you are riding in powder.
RIDER
|
FREERIDE
|
FREESTYLE
|
70- (LBS)
|
134- (CM)
|
129 (CM)
|
80
|
137
|
132
|
90
|
140
|
135
|
100
|
143
|
138
|
110
|
146
|
141
|
120
|
149
|
144
|
130
|
152
|
147
|
140
|
155
|
150
|
150
|
158
|
153
|
160
|
161
|
156
|
170
|
162
|
157
|
180
|
162
|
158
|
190
|
163
|
159
|
200
|
163
|
160
|
210
|
164
|
161
|
220
|
165
|
161
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If your shoe-size is a men's 12 or larger,
you should consider using a double wide board. (a little wider than
standard) ,though it is desirable to have your toes stick out at least
half an inch from the board.
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